MY26 software update (week 36) for MY24-25

[lukine]

it's not voltage - it's most likely a neutral or ground issue - but EVSE's don't use the neutral

I'd have your 240V circuit checked out - breaker swapped and maybe the NEMA socket replaced...

But that doesn’t make any sense. An electrician already came to check all that and he said everything was good and don’t appear to have issues. The Nema socket is an. EV certified socket as well. He checked the breaker for burns didn’t see anything wrong. And the biggest sticky point is that the car was charging fine and it immediately stopped charging after I brought my car home from the dealership after the last update was done. I don’t really think it was just a coincidence.

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[daveo4EV]

But that doesn’t make any sense. An electrician already came to check all that and he said everything was good and don’t appear to have issues. The Nema socket is an. EV certified socket as well. He checked the breaker for burns didn’t see anything wrong. And the biggest sticky point is that the car was charging fine and it immediately stopped charging after I brought my car home from the dealership after the last update was done. I don’t really think it was just a coincidence.

hmmmm…this is a difficult one - it's going to hard to diagnose - and doing it over the internet is going to be less than effective...

does the car charge off of a 120V outlet at your home?

 

[lukine]

hmmmm…this is a difficult one - it's going to hard to diagnose - and doing it over the internet is going to be less than effective...

does the car charge off of a 120V outlet at your home?

The Lucid charger was the 120v charger I tried. That also failed.

 

[Flying4Fun]

There is not much that is logical about your situation, its also a little hard to follow all the details.
Can yuo consider maybe chart, maybe liek the one I started below, and fill in all the different ways you tested and the result to help every keep track

@ your home, your car, your charger = no charge
@ your home, dealers car, your charger = charges
@ Dealers local, your car, your charger = charges
@ friends home, your car, their charger = charges

trying to keep all your combinations in my head is difficult, but it strikes me as some very not logical things happening.

As for the electrician, I hope they knew what they were doing, and had real testing gear, not just a cheap ohm's meter. I had a situation that took two years to resolve, I was at the point where I had a device send an email alert to the electric provider directly every time there was an issue. After 600 alerts for brownout a day, 3 days later, they decided they would look into it. They put a power monitor on my meter. Turns out the subdivision was 300% over subscribed, and they ended up getting millions in emergency funding to build new transmission lines. I had to push hard, I was getting 30 built out LED builds a month, blown furnace motors and AC. But every test they did showed normal, until they put that power monitor/logger on the meter itself. (and for completion yes, they swapped meters etc. before). They tried to tell me I had a floating ground, but their equipment couldn't detect it.

For you, the only other thing I can think of, but I'm far from an expert on how the EVSE works, is that there is a signaling issue. You might have some RF (line noise) that is stopping the car from getting a clean signal to the EVSE or a response from it to activate the power relays. if this is the case it could be many things, such as the breaker is leaking RF from a noisy device such as motor/compressor, welding machine, generator, solar inverter etc..

I work in the IT world, and I have had power affected in data center by power factor issues, and we had to actively manage it. A large number of switching power supplies, can also induce this condition.

In my collective experience, it is the investigative direction I can prompt you towards. Power factor issues can cause lots of issues, and same with line noise from defective things like breakers and panel box falling to isolate it,

Based on how much of all the different failed state combinations I could follow, this might be something to rule out. I can understand why the dealer is not able to correct it, if it works in so many other situations and it will accept a charge, but at your home, it will not.

Might be a goose chase for you, up to you if you want to play it out. RF Line noise and power factor issues to summarize my long response (apologies) - maybe someone more skilled can tell you if it's even worth looking at these two things.

 

[Flying4Fun]

I don’t know how, but it appears that your vehicle may be blocking the charging process based on the location. I would turn off WiFi, but I’m not sure how to disable the cellular connection. If you have not tried, I would suggest doing a factory reset (not the same as a PCM reset). That fixed stubborn software glitches in my car. Alternatively, try disconnecting the 12v battery. Some owners recommend that to fix software issues. However, I have no experience with that.

This is insightful - I am not well educated on how the Macan managed all of this, as I use a 3rd party charger, but I(think I)recall seeing some location-based settings for charging.

I know the OP said they did a reset, but maybe that doesn't reset the location-based charging setup up?

The comments later where he even tried a 120v charger and same issue persists makes me think you're onto something with location based charge settings and clearing/defaulting them to resolve this. Considering some people had failed updates, and bricked modules during the update, it's possible his update didn't brick, but rather corrupted something.

If someone knows how this part of the software works, it might be worth exploring this deeper.

It also aligned with the idea that is a simple answer (aka, "When you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras").

Clearing location-based charging settings I think is the most worthwhile investigative path.

 

[daveo4EV]

The Lucid charger was the 120v charger I tried. That also failed.

both charge ports?

grasping at straws!

 

[Flying4Fun]

If you want to try to mess with location base charging settings:
How to use Porsche Charging Timer | Ask Porsche

Also look at the section on timers:

I was just not playing with "departure time" and it seems to not start charging the car right away. It seems to know that if the charge will take 1 hour, but you're not leaving for another 5 hours, that it waits and starts to charge closer to 4 hours from departure time.

I could only test this so much, but that was what I think I was seeing.

Have you (or can you) go into and clear these charger timers, departure time, location-based charge settings and see what happens?

If these features are truly the source of your issues, looks liek you can use the "direct charging" to bypass them all:

How can I override the departure timer for immediate charging?
At some public charging stations, the charging process can’t be started if a departure timer is activated. In this case, the direct charge function can be activated via the PCM or the My Porsche app. The high-voltage battery will then be charged to 100%, regardless of the timer.

PCM central display

1. Tap on Charge, then Overview.Tap Direct charging to start charging immediately.

My Porsche app

1. Tap on your Vehicle (or Vehicle Details).Tap on Functions.Tap Charging.Move the slider for Direct charging to On.

 

[Wivenhoe]

As other cars charge there then surely the issue is in the car. When you plug in what colour light do you get ? As it may be a location based issue, have you tried activating location based charging -

During location-dependent charging, the high-voltage battery is automatically charged at a previously defined location, e.g. at home. The charging operation is determined by the location and begins as soon as the vehicle charging plug is plugged in.

1. 
   VehicleChargePlan departure
2. Add new departure
3. Additional charging settings
4. Save current location

Also, I understand that if the battery is less than 20% then irrespective of anything in the App or PCM then charging should start - perhaps put your home in as a location, have the battery less the 20% and turn on location charging in the App.

 

[Pepppie]

Guys.. You're in a software-topic. For more than 2 pages it's all about a charging (hardware) problem. Time to get a separate topic!

 

[daveo4EV]

Guys.. You're in a software-topic. For more than 2 pages it's all about a charging (hardware) problem. Time to get a separate topic!

not a hardware problem if the car charges in other locations with the same hardware - it's a software bug configuration issue…

root cause TBD - if ever found…

 

[FrediBee]

So they need to change the hardware then? Computer that handles the battery? Would be interested to learn more so we can have arguing points to bring to Porsche.

Yep, they told me on the phone it's the computer itself, the hardware.
I will post more infos when available.

 

[lukine]

There is not much that is logical about your situation, its also a little hard to follow all the details.
Can yuo consider maybe chart, maybe liek the one I started below, and fill in all the different ways you tested and the result to help every keep track

@ your home, your car, your charger = no charge
@ your home, dealers car, your charger = charges
@ Dealers local, your car, your charger = charges
@ friends home, your car, their charger = charges

trying to keep all your combinations in my head is difficult, but it strikes me as some very not logical things happening.

As for the electrician, I hope they knew what they were doing, and had real testing gear, not just a cheap ohm's meter. I had a situation that took two years to resolve, I was at the point where I had a device send an email alert to the electric provider directly every time there was an issue. After 600 alerts for brownout a day, 3 days later, they decided they would look into it. They put a power monitor on my meter. Turns out the subdivision was 300% over subscribed, and they ended up getting millions in emergency funding to build new transmission lines. I had to push hard, I was getting 30 built out LED builds a month, blown furnace motors and AC. But every test they did showed normal, until they put that power monitor/logger on the meter itself. (and for completion yes, they swapped meters etc. before). They tried to tell me I had a floating ground, but their equipment couldn't detect it.

For you, the only other thing I can think of, but I'm far from an expert on how the EVSE works, is that there is a signaling issue. You might have some RF (line noise) that is stopping the car from getting a clean signal to the EVSE or a response from it to activate the power relays. if this is the case it could be many things, such as the breaker is leaking RF from a noisy device such as motor/compressor, welding machine, generator, solar inverter etc..

I work in the IT world, and I have had power affected in data center by power factor issues, and we had to actively manage it. A large number of switching power supplies, can also induce this condition.

In my collective experience, it is the investigative direction I can prompt you towards. Power factor issues can cause lots of issues, and same with line noise from defective things like breakers and panel box falling to isolate it,

Based on how much of all the different failed state combinations I could follow, this might be something to rule out. I can understand why the dealer is not able to correct it, if it works in so many other situations and it will accept a charge, but at your home, it will not.

Might be a goose chase for you, up to you if you want to play it out. RF Line noise and power factor issues to summarize my long response (apologies) - maybe someone more skilled can tell you if it's even worth looking at these two things.

Pre-transformer installation:

At Home passenger side charging port w/ Porsche Mobile charger = FAIL
At Home driver side charging port w/ Porsche Mobile charger = FAIL
At Home both charging ports w/Grizzl-E classic charger = FAIL
At dealership DC charging port /w dealership charger (not sure what brand) = SUCCESS
At dealership AC driver side port /w dealership charger (not sure what brand) = SUCCESS
At dealership's manager's home (unsure which port they used) AC charging = SUCCESS
At friend #1's home w/ Tesla mobile connector using J1772 adapter both ports = SUCCCESS
At friend #1's home w/ Porsche Mobile charger passenger side port = SUCCESS
At friend #1's home w/Lucid's charger using 120v adapter, driver side port = SUCCESSS
At friend #2's home w/Porsche Mobile charger passenger side port = SUCCESS
At Electrify Canada charging station, DC port = SUCCESS

And to reiterate what has been done in terms of checks:

1) Licensed electrician and certified with Qmerit checked breaker panel, grounding, voltage fluctuations, Nema 14-50 socket. All checked out, only possible issue is voltage was on the high end of 250v
2) Hydro company came to check voltage coming into the home, confirmed 250v/130v coming in. Installed transformer to lower voltage coming into the home. After the installation, measurements read were 240.2v/120.2v.
3) Dealership reset PCM to factory settings
4) Dealership installed a patch end of December to try to revert back to previous update. Did not fix the issue.


Post-transformer installation:

Using Porsche Mobile charger at passenger side = FAIL
Using Grizzl-E classic charger at passenger side = FAIL
Using Lucid charger with 120v adapter, driver side = FAIL

Additional thoughts:
1) If user Fredibee's issue points to a computer problem, and the fact that the reverting of software did not fix the issue. Could this actually have started as a software issue that caused a hardware failure? Which would explain why the reverting of software version failed to fix the issue.
2) But if it was a hardware issue, why would the car charge at all other locations?
3) I do not think RF signals or location charging has anything to do with it because it was working fine prior to the update, and I never touched any of settings after the update was performed. The car never charged after the update was performed. Not even once. So unless somehow the update changed the settings somehow. But I never noticed anything related to location charging on the settings. Where is that located?

@daveo4EV Lucid charger was only attempted on driver side port as the plug was too far for the passenger side

@Pepppie Apologies, but this all started from a software update which bricked a lot of owner's charging. I could start a new thread, but I think we're almost at the end of the discussion anyway. This information could help other users experiencing the same issue troubleshoot their problem.

@Wivenhoe Other cars were never attempted at my home. Though I believe this would be a good venue to explore. Bringing other EVs to charge at my home to see if it would work. At least this would isolate if the issue is my home or the car itself. I will be calling the dealership to ask if I could borrow their EV loaner Macan or Taycan to bring to my place. Or even ask their general manager to bring his vehicle to charge at my home. But the Macan loaner they have also got the update and apparently it doesn't charge at other client's home. So maybe not borrow that particular vehicle. I'm going to ask if my friend is willing to drive 1.5hrs here to test charging at my house

@Flying4Fun I have turned off all charging schedules so car always charges as long as it's connected and below 100% SoC. I have the SoC currently sitting at 100%, and I always tried connecting when the SoC is above 50% when testing.

 

[lukine]

Yep, they told me on the phone it's the computer itself, the hardware.
I will post more infos when available.

Seems it's not just one part that manages battery and charging if this AI answer is correct

 

[alxman]

Pre-transformer installation:

At Home passenger side charging port w/ Porsche Mobile charger = FAIL
At Home driver side charging port w/ Porsche Mobile charger = FAIL
At Home both charging ports w/Grizzl-E classic charger = FAIL
At dealership DC charging port /w dealership charger (not sure what brand) = SUCCESS
At dealership AC driver side port /w dealership charger (not sure what brand) = SUCCESS
At dealership's manager's home (unsure which port they used) AC charging = SUCCESS
At friend #1's home w/ Tesla mobile connector using J1772 adapter both ports = SUCCCESS
At friend #1's home w/ Porsche Mobile charger passenger side port = SUCCESS
At friend #1's home w/Lucid's charger using 120v adapter, driver side port = SUCCESSS
At friend #2's home w/Porsche Mobile charger passenger side port = SUCCESS
At Electrify Canada charging station, DC port = SUCCESS

And to reiterate what has been done in terms of checks:

1) Licensed electrician and certified with Qmerit checked breaker panel, grounding, voltage fluctuations, Nema 14-50 socket. All checked out, only possible issue is voltage was on the high end of 250v
2) Hydro company came to check voltage coming into the home, confirmed 250v/130v coming in. Installed transformer to lower voltage coming into the home. After the installation, measurements read were 240.2v/120.2v.
3) Dealership reset PCM to factory settings
4) Dealership installed a patch end of December to try to revert back to previous update. Did not fix the issue.


Post-transformer installation:

Using Porsche Mobile charger at passenger side = FAIL
Using Grizzl-E classic charger at passenger side = FAIL
Using Lucid charger with 120v adapter, driver side = FAIL

Additional thoughts:
1) If user Fredibee's issue points to a computer problem, and the fact that the reverting of software did not fix the issue. Could this actually have started as a software issue that caused a hardware failure? Which would explain why the reverting of software version failed to fix the issue.
2) But if it was a hardware issue, why would the car charge at all other locations?
3) I do not think RF signals or location charging has anything to do with it because it was working fine prior to the update, and I never touched any of settings after the update was performed. The car never charged after the update was performed. Not even once. So unless somehow the update changed the settings somehow. But I never noticed anything related to location charging on the settings. Where is that located?

@daveo4EV Lucid charger was only attempted on driver side port as the plug was too far for the passenger side

@Pepppie Apologies, but this all started from a software update which bricked a lot of owner's charging. I could start a new thread, but I think we're almost at the end of the discussion anyway. This information could help other users experiencing the same issue troubleshoot their problem.

@Wivenhoe Other cars were never attempted at my home. Though I believe this would be a good venue to explore. Bringing other EVs to charge at my home to see if it would work. At least this would isolate if the issue is my home or the car itself. I will be calling the dealership to ask if I could borrow their EV loaner Macan or Taycan to bring to my place. Or even ask their general manager to bring his vehicle to charge at my home. But the Macan loaner they have also got the update and apparently it doesn't charge at other client's home. So maybe not borrow that particular vehicle. I'm going to ask if my friend is willing to drive 1.5hrs here to test charging at my house

@Flying4Fun I have turned off all charging schedules so car always charges as long as it's connected and below 100% SoC. I have the SoC currently sitting at 100%, and I always tried connecting when the SoC is above 50% when testing.

I still find it weird that the car is able to charge anywhere but your home. I’m not an expert but that would make a hardware issue less likely. Again, I’m not sure whether it has been tried or whether it will fix the issue you have, but if it was me I would do a factory reset, which is not the same as a PCM reset. It’s relatively simple and you can do it at home. On the car central display go to settings and follow the instructions for a factory reset. Just wait until the time and date sync correctly (may need to drive a block or two depending upon cellular signal) before completing the process. Everything should work as before, except that you may need to reprogram your garage doors and your PCM tile order (I usually take a picture so I don’t have to depend on my memory). Good luck!

 

[lukine]

I still find it weird that the car is able to charge anywhere but your home. I’m not an expert but that would make a hardware issue less likely. Again, I’m not sure whether it has been tried or whether it will fix the issue you have, but if it was me I would do a factory reset, which is not the same as a PCM reset. It’s relatively simple and you can do it at home. On the car central display go to settings and follow the instructions for a factory reset. Just wait until the time and date sync correctly (may need to drive a block or two depending upon cellular signal) before completing the process. Everything should work as before, except that you may need to reprogram your garage doors and your PCM tile order (I usually take a picture so I don’t have to depend on my memory). Good luck!

I just did a factory reset and stayed as guest account, then attempted to charge to no avail. The charger would click and it would go from green to yellow multiple times, I think I counted 5 times before it fails permanently and goes red.

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