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It simply is not true. You can look at the Porsche Taycan graph posted by degenatron. The difference between preconditiong and not is ~10C. There is no point on the curve where a 10C difference in battery temperature doubles charging performance. It shows a 3.5 minute loss from 20C to 10C...

You're just wasting power, my guy. Burning almost 15% of the power you put in at the charging stop isn't saving you time or money just because the first number you see is higher. You only added net 19kWh on the charging stop, and even at 16C and a 120kW starting charge speed, the initial...

There's plenty of heat buildup in the battery in cold weather--an hour's drive should get you +15-20C above starting temperature. But it's true there's no spare heat for the cabin when the battery is only 20-25C. The only time in cold weather there would be waste heat to move from the battery...

If you're only driving a short distance and charging a half-cycle one time, then there's not even a conversation worth having. You are still saving less than five minutes on that charge. Even at just 100kW, there is no mathematical possibility that this is true. You cannot physically save more...

You might be thinking of the Geotab report. Even then, the conclusion is overstated, as the data showed no statistical difference between L2 and L3 charging in general or between battery temperature in cold or moderate climates. The only area of slight concern was in hot climates (e.g...

Correct--no one is sitting at a DC fast charger for twice as long because they forgot to set a preconditioning destination in the nav, or were using Carplay instead of the PCM. It's a helpful feature to try to shave a minute here and there off charging times because range and charging are the...

Yes, battery conditioning is needed and performed automatically by the car. Preconditioning is another matter. It doesn't. It's just math, not magic. Q=mcT. At 0C, the 10-80% charging time is only reduced from 21 to 22 minutes. Battery preheating can change the temperature by roughly 10C...

It'd have to be below 0C for preheating to kick in. There's no point to doing it unless the battery is more than 10C out of the ~10-30C ideal range. Sort of. People really are spending way too much time thinking about preconditioning. It doesn't do very much for most cars in most conditions...

I mean exactly that. Digital key is a paid option, not standard equipment, in most markets. In the US, it is a separate $280 option from comfort access by itself, which is standard. In the UK, comfort access is optional and comes with digital key for £963, which is up about £200 for the bundle...

Absolutely. As I said they could decide to make it free at some point in the future. But I wouldn't hold my breath. Why make it free for 2024-25 with comfort access when it's not free for 2026 with comfort access? To be clear, I would LIKE it to be free :) It just doesn't look like it's...

Doors opening and cars just shutting off shouldn't happen, but false positives on ADAS and propulsion systems are a safety feature that's intentionally designed in. The whole point of these features is to intervene when certain conditions are detected. It's obviously good that they have...

There is no hardware difference. A UWB key is a UWB key whether it's a phone or a fob. The software is different. 2024-25 models don't have the digital key feature configured, but that's fixable. The real problem is that Porsche is being Porsche and charging extra for the feature, which...

Not that I know of. There are three possibilities to fix that: Poke around in the App Center for something with a larger clock display (maybe a weather app) Run a clock app/widget through CarPlay or Android Auto (like...

It is 100% ICE Macans. The study was conducted in 2023 and 2024 and concluded before the Macan EV was delivered to customers. The $77K average price in the data set is also telling since the EV starts at $78K. The link in the article is only to used cars listed for sale as of today on the site.

A half-tripped 60A breaker would still be 30A of current on the circuit and 7.2kW of charging. Almost certainly isn't that.

3.9kW means something in your line of charging is limiting you to 16amps instead of 40. Could be an overheating cable, a bad temperature sensor, a blown fuse, or a fault in the circuit.

It can be GPS or just the antenna. It's still the phone GPS module in control--there's no way to turn it off. CarPlay/AA take over the GPS antenna in the car to improve accuracy and signal lock and feed the data to the phone GPS, which then renders it incapable of sending data to the in-car...

All the data on direction, altitude, and location comes from the car's built-in GPS and accelerometer. Your phone does all of those things itself as well. No problem when those two things are operating independently. But when you connect the two by activating phone navigation to display on the...

Again, it's not either/or. Automotive service technicians are not qualified to address software issues, and customers are definitely not qualified to diagnose how the software is designed to behave. If there isn't a definitive fix, it's even more clearly an issue beyond a technician's scope of...

Very few systems that have user-facing software are critical or run on the RTOS, which is only deterministic in the sense of having to complete operations within a time-bound window, not the expanded definition you're using that requires consistency in behavior. Even though any algorithm should...